A New Triologie in Parc-Extension – Trilogie Lo Dei Fong

Trilogie

February 25, 2015

in Food, Parc Extension, Reviews

What’s that saying again… “If you don’t have high expectations, then you can’t be disappointed.”…? Something like that? Whenever I try new restaurants I always keep this in mind. Having been disappointed in the past was the direct result of believing hype before I had a chance to experience a place for myself. When people find out I write about restaurants, I’m often bombarded with questions about the usual suspects and am given gratuitous suggestions about places I need to try. As a dumpling fiend, I was recently turned on to this place by three different people and was told I had to check them out – Trilogie, a quaint little spot in Parc-Ex for dumplings.

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The menu was limited, with five appetizers and three kinds of dumplings to choose from (not including daily specials). I asked the waitress – who turned out to be one of the owners – of the two salads, which was the better one. She said she liked the cucumber salad, and the cucumber salad we ordered. A refreshing bowl of deseeded and crushed cucumbers, in black vinegar tossed with their house spicy sauce, dried Szechuan peppers, and spiced rosemary and peanuts. The peanuts gave the cucumbers a sharp bite that complimented the sweet acidity of the black vinegar. It was a great way to pique one’s appetite.

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The vegetarian spring rolls were in fact… vegetarian spring rolls. Cabbage, vermicelli, bean sprouts, carrots and Chinese mushrooms spring rolls served with a sweet and sour sauce. The filling was cut way too big which resulted in serving golden and crispy spring rolls with filling what was next to raw. Granted, it was vegetarian and crunchy veggies isn’t the end of the world, but it’s not cool to bite into a spring roll and pull out a shoelace-like strand of cabbage.


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Pork and scallion Hunan style dumplings served with spicy peanut sauce. The dumplings were stuck together and most of them fell apart – there’s a reason why most places ladle the sauce over the dumplings rather then tossing it all together. I found the filling to be a bit salty which surprisingly wasn’t saved by the sweet and spicy peanut sauce.

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We ordered the “Umami” dumplings – Chinese cabbage, pork and shrimp – pan-fried. Perhaps the saving grace of our lunch. A generous portion of dumplings pan-fried to perfection. This “jiaozi” style of dumpling – which shouldn’t be confused with wontons, soup dumplings or even xiao long baos – have a thicker more durable skin which hold up to pan-frying and deep-frying better. The filling was juicy (a literal stream of jus pierced the skin under the pressure of my bite and shot across the table) and the wrapper was toothsome. Served with choice of sauces, we had the black vinegar and spicy sauce and the spicy peanut sauce.

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Without a doubt the place is cute; minimalist. White walls, a mix of wooden and metal furniture and Chinese knick-knacks decorate the place. I’m not one to comment on decor or interior design, but any photograph taken of this space would probably easily be confused for a picture plucked out of any girly lifestyle blogger Instagram account.

Trilogy was recently featured in La Presse – the story behind the place is romantic. The Chinese name of Tiologie “老地方” (that’s conspicuously stamped on the corner of the menus) translates to “Old place” – which from the food being served and atmosphere and feeling of sitting in the space, I can sort of imagine an old back alley three-table eatery in some village somewhere in rural China run by a small family for years with local elders smoking cigarettes and playing Chinese chess. If a business can survive on charm alone, they would last for years and I wish them all the best. Unfortunately in the world of running a restaurant, your food has to be as air tight as your dumplings. Getting that right before antique scavenging and setting up vintage Chinese LP music playlists would be vital. I see great potential, but Triologie still needs some work.

Trilogie
(514) 885-1038
8521 Saint Laurent Blvd
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